Convertible installers top

As seen it is only installed on the outer edges of this back 3 bow as the listing materials go in to the center section. Simply take pictures of where the tack strips were on your top and install in the same locations.

If need be you can trim the channel materials down to level. We use a belt sander to make short work of it. In general the channels are not consistent as far as depth goes so a bit of trimming will usually be needed.

Next Eric takes the new front header seal and wraps it around the retainer strip before installation. For fitting purposes he only attaches it with a few screws. This will let the top sit in its proper height while adjusting and tweaking the top materials. The back bow has a height measurement that the top mfg will provide. We make a spacer out of 1x1 hard wood to keep it exactly in that position for every top we do.

Here are the balance link adjustment bolts. We will mark the current location then loosen and adjust them counter clock wise to pull the top forward and allow the pin to drop in on the passenger side. Choosing the correct staples to fully penetrate the channel but not hit bottom is crucial, so be sure you make the right choice. We start the install with the side stay pad materials first. These keep the top tight and somewhat aligned front to back so precise alignment is important.

Next we pull it tight to the back and stretch to remove all the wrinkles. Note the front header is latched down in place. At the rear bow you can see where it steps down for the materials to lay just below this drop off. This keeps the stay pad positioned correctly.

A close up of the bow shows the step down where the edges of the qter panel and side panel stay pads are positioned. The cable was installed with the spring retainer before the flaps were glued down. They need to be ordered as they do not come with the top. Next we go to the sail panel stay pad tack strip and we take a look at the old top to see the factory marks and how they lined up to compare with the new top material.

As seen the edge of the sail panel stay pad is lined up to the black marks on the tack strip next to his fingers. Once stapled we take the sail panel along with the tack strip and bolt it back in place. As seen just below the retainer some material is hanging. In general there is usually extra material that hangs below the retainer that can be pulled to remove wrinkles if needed. This can be trimmed after all is satisfactory.

After we installed both sides and were satisfied we then taped the seams. It is time to start the top install. All of the preparation we just did will make the difference in the final product. The rear window along with its top material will be fitted next and as mentioned before it is separate from the main top. As seen the MFG. The next step shows us lining up the factory lines on the top material and the metal tack strip.

Now we will mark where each hole lays over the top. On those marks we will then cut a small hole in the material to clear the mounting screws. Once we install and check for fit we can make alterations if needed. It is time to relieve the pressure on the frame by unhooking the top to make it easier to install the rear window upper channel.

Once he has the rear window stapled in place he will re-latch which will pull the materials around the glass tight and hopefully wrinkle free. As seen some of the material hangs below the tack strip. Occasionally we have to remove the screws and elongate the holes in the top to stretch the material down even farther in order to remove more wrinkles.

First time out it still has a small wrinkle so we will make a few adjustments. The sun combined with a bit of steaming will remove most of this but we want to have it stretched very tight.

An important point to remember is to match the side binding edge even with the tack strip retainer. Eric pulls the materials over the top of the tack strip until the factory line is right on the edge then he staples it in place.

Magnolia Ave. Oakton St Unit D Arlington. Rand Rd. Vincent Ave. Patrick St. Red Arrow Hwy. Lake Street Minneapolis, MN www. King Jr. Chester St. Main St. Jonesville, NC www. Holly, NJ www. Albuquerque, NM www. Port Washington, NY www. Admiral Place Tulsa, OK www. Hayes Ave. Position the top over the framework until it sits right. Secure the top to the No. Raise the top off the windshield header and attach all cables. Center the top valance over the No. Pull out fullness and wrinkles.

Using screws and contact cement, fasten the quarter flaps in position. Re-install weatherstripping along the side rails, using screws and trim adhesive to hold it in place.

Latch the top to the windshield and pull the fabric gently over the No. Use a pencil to mark its position. Raise the top and pull the fabric a quarter inch past the reference mark. Secure it to the bow with screws, staples and glue. At each step, make sure to check for proper top appearance and operation. Next, install the roll at the front that overlaps the windshield header.

With top latched, staple the new fabric to the tacking strip. Start at the front of the tacking strip and move to the rear. Use only a few staples so you can make pulls and adjustments as you move around the curved sections. Try to eliminate wrinkles. Avoid excessive stretching. Keep the top material flat. Install the wire-on over the staples holding the top to the No. Install end caps on the wire-on.

Use a silicone sealer for waterproofing. Make holes for the belt molding studs in the bottom edges of the top and backlight and line them up with the holes in the tacking strip. Install fasteners on the studs where they protrude inside the body well.

Then re-install fasteners that hold the well cover in position. Leave the top up for several days to allow it to set. We installed a Kee Auto Top kit obtained from J. However, make sure to review the features of each top maker before buying one. A certain top may be best for your car.